I too have similar problems and this is what i can tell you.
I have a alpine cd player in my car, and a freinds. They are about 7 years old, but they play original cd's perfectly. I experience the same skipping issue in both players when it comes to burnt cd's.
In my work, it's my job to find a problem to another error regarding burnt cd's. The players i work with were manufactured by sony, and people i know have had heaps of issues with sony players and burnt cd's. in some cases, they just won't play at all. i even suspect sony made the same players in the headunits i'm dealing with.
Using both Nero6 and Nero5, i could not create a readable cd, either compiled or from original, and at any speed. I dug out some old cd's i had burnt 4-5 years ago, and most of them play perfectly. The players at work used to use Kodak Gold's and worked fine, but they are stopped making them, which is when we first had trouble.
We have tried most cd's, tdk, imation, datastream, even no-name dodgy blanks. same problem happens. Although, some play better than others. We have also used Blindwrite to copy orignals, even in PQ/PW (exact sector by sector copy) mode and we thought our problems were solved, until we played the cd a few times.
My suspicions, are that the cd's these days are designed to be burnt quicker, and the players these days are mostly cheap and nasty components. I'm not an expert, but the laser wavelength might just be out of standard by a little, and possibly reading the sectors wrong, or maybe causing the dye to change. A solution, if this was a problem, is to get blanks with a lower burn speed, even less than 16x.
Another suspicion is CD-Text. older players can't read it, so it may be causing problems.
Another suspicion, is the blanks themselves, and their translucency. Original discs cannot be 'seen through' when held to the light, and unlike blanks, they are totally silver. I've tried to find blanks that are as close to an original cd as possible, with no real success.
I've also tried finding a copy of the Red Book and Yellow Book standards for CD's without paying for them, and being unsuccessful.
I've tried almost everything in my reach to fix the faults and there are no answers to be found. But why do blank cd's look different (green, blue, yellow) from originals (silver)??